Alle haargroeimiddelen vergeleken: wat is bewezen en wat niet?

All hair growth products compared: what works and what doesn't?

Online, you'll find many products promising to make your hair fuller, reduce hair loss, or promote healthier growth. These include shampoos, serums, lotions, and cosmetic hair growth products like Spectral, Nanoxidil, Neofollics, Neoxyl, Bio-Pilixin, Foligain, Trioxidil, Redensyl, Panthrix, and Alpecin Caffeine Liquid.

These products are often presented with phrases like "clinically tested," "scientifically proven," or "an alternative to minoxidil." This sounds convincing. However, when dealing with hair loss, it's crucial to carefully examine what exactly has been studied—and how.

In this article, we explain the difference between cosmetic hair growth products and proven treatments for hereditary hair loss. We also look at which ingredients do have published scientific data.

Table of Contents

In brief

Cosmetic hair growth products can sometimes make your hair appear fuller, feel better, or soothe the scalp. This is not the same as proven new hair growth.

Minoxidil foam or minoxidil lotion and finasteride (tablets) are the only registered medicines for hereditary hair loss in the Netherlands. A registered medicine has been evaluated by regulatory authorities for efficacy, safety, and quality before it can be brought to market.1,2

For many cosmetic hair growth products, the evidence is more limited. However, there are also cosmetic ingredients for which published clinical data *do* exist—such as caffeine, melatonin, and procyanidin B2. This nuance is important.

Cosmetic product or medicine: what's the difference?

Cosmetic shampoos, serums, and lotions are intended for hair care, cleansing, or improving its appearance. For example, they can help make hair feel softer or temporarily add volume.

Medicines have a different purpose. They are intended to treat a medical condition. For a medicine, efficacy, safety, and quality must be assessed according to fixed regulations before it can be brought to market.

In hereditary hair loss, the problem lies around the hair follicles in the scalp. Under the influence of genetic and hormonal factors, hair follicles produce progressively thinner hairs. A (cosmetic) product that primarily makes hair look better usually does not address this core process.

What do brands mean by "clinically tested"?

The term "clinically tested" sounds medical but doesn't always say much. Sometimes it means that a product has been tried by users. Sometimes it involves a questionnaire. Sometimes only an ingredient has been studied, but not the product you buy. And sometimes the research is not published in a scientific journal.³ (which would indicate that the research was done correctly and important new insights were gained).

That's why, for hair growth claims, we primarily look at the quality of the evidence.

What do we look for in evidence?

When evaluating hair loss products, these questions are important:

  • Has the final product been studied, or only an ingredient?
  • Has it been tested on people with hereditary hair loss?
  • Was there a control group (placebo)?
  • Was the study group large enough to draw a sound conclusion from the research?
  • Were participants and researchers blinded? (Did people know if they were receiving the real product or not?)
  • Were the outcomes objectively measured (e.g., with hair counts or photo analysis)?
  • Was the study long enough?
  • Has the research been published and independently reviewed?
  • Is the product recommended in dermatological guidelines?
  • Is the product registered as a medicine?

The more questions that can be answered with "yes," the stronger the evidence.

Comparison: hair growth products and ingredients

Below is a brief overview of the most important products and ingredients, ranked from strongest to weakest evidence. At the bottom of the blog, you'll find the complete comparison table with all details and available scientific evidence.

Please note: this comparison assesses the available scientific evidence. A lower score does not directly mean the product is useless.

Ingredients with published data: what do we know?

Besides minoxidil and finasteride, there are some cosmetic ingredients for which relatively good published clinical studies exist. Below, we discuss the most important ones.

Caffeine (topical)

Caffeine is the most researched cosmetic ingredient for hereditary hair loss. In a study with 210 men randomized, a 0.2% caffeine lotion was compared to 5% minoxidil over 6 months. The result: the caffeine group showed an improvement in the percentage of actively growing hairs of 10.59%, versus 11.68% for minoxidil.4

A review that looked at 9 studies (including 5 randomized studies) concluded that topical caffeine consistently promoted hair growth or reduced hair loss, with few side effects.5

Laboratory research shows that caffeine can counteract the inhibitory effect of testosterone on hair follicles.6

Important caveats:

  • The comparative study was open-label (not blinded), which reduces the strength of the evidence.4
  • It is unclear whether the tested product is identical to commercially available caffeine lotions such as Alpecin.4
  • These studies on lotion say nothing about the effectiveness of caffeine shampoo. This is rinsed off immediately, and we have found no evidence that shampoo works against hair loss.
  • The study was funded by Dr. Wolff, owner of Alpecin.6

Conclusion: caffeine has promising data, but the evidence is nowhere near as strong as for minoxidil. Researchers indicate that caffeine lotion may be an option for people who cannot tolerate or do not want to use minoxidil4,5, but there is no hard evidence for it.

Rosemary oil

Rosemary oil is often mentioned as a natural alternative to minoxidil. In a small study with 100 participants, similar results were observed for rosemary oil and 2% minoxidil after 6 months of use.13

The study used a lotion with pure rosemary oil. The researchers do not precisely describe the concentration or composition of this lotion. Therefore, it is not possible to apply the results of this study to rosemary products sold online. These products often differ greatly in concentration, purity, composition, and other ingredients. For these products, there is no direct evidence that they help against hereditary hair loss.

The remaining evidence mainly comes from animal research. Rosemary contains substances that may inhibit the conversion of testosterone to DHT, but this has not been sufficiently proven in humans.14

Conclusion: interesting, but the evidence is limited to one small study. Rosemary oil can also cause skin irritation in sensitive individuals.14

Ketoconazole shampoo (prescription)

Ketoconazole is a substance that combats fungi. Research shows that it can also help with hereditary hair loss. In 7 studies with 318 participants, an increase in hair thickness and an improvement in hair growth were observed. 12

Ketoconazole shampoo (2%) is sometimes recommended by dermatologists as an addition to minoxidil or finasteride, but not as a standalone treatment.12

In our article on ketoconazole shampoo alongside minoxidil, we explain when this combination can be considered and what the available research shows about it.

Redensyl (Panthrix)

Redensyl is an ingredient used in cosmetic hair products. In a study of 44 people, Redensyl was compared to a placebo. After 24 weeks, Redensyl led to moderate improvement in hair growth in approximately 73% of users; about 20% noticed no difference. More hairs were also found in the active growth phase.15

Caveats: the study was not double-blind (the researcher and users knew what they were using), the lotion contained multiple active ingredients (not just Redensyl), and there was no comparison with another proven hair growth product such as minoxidil.15 The other Redensyl studies are open-label, without a control group, and often sponsored by the manufacturer.16,18

Conclusion: there is very weak evidence that Redensyl could do something against hair loss, and this evidence is not strong enough to consider Redensyl products as a treatment for hereditary hair loss.

Spectral DNC-N Nanoxidil lotion, Foligain Trioxidil lotion, Neofollics Neoxyl lotion, and Bio-Pilixin

For these products, no published scientific studies have been found where the product itself was tested in people with hereditary hair loss, with a comparison group and measurable results.3

Results mentioned on brand websites are often unverifiable because they come from the brand itself. Sometimes, they involve sponsored user studies where participants receive free products.

This doesn't mean someone can't find such a product pleasant. But pleasant to use is different from a proven treatment for hereditary hair loss.

Why comparisons with minoxidil are often misleading

Some cosmetic hair growth products are compared online with minoxidil. This can create the impression that they are comparable alternatives.

However, such a comparison is only meaningful if comparative studies exist: with sufficient participants, a control group, objective measurements, and a sufficiently long study duration. For these cosmetic products, such studies are lacking.3, 19

Minoxidil: why is it different?

Minoxidil is a medicine with multiple large clinical studies, objective measurements, and drug registration. Both 2% and 5% minoxidil are proven effective for hereditary hair loss.2

This does not mean that minoxidil works equally well for everyone. It does mean that the treatment has been much more thoroughly researched according to medical standards than cosmetic hair growth products.

Minoxidil also requires time. The first results are usually only assessed after four to six months. Stabilization—meaning less further deterioration—can also be a valuable result.

Finasteride: prescription drug for men

Finasteride inhibits the conversion of testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a hormone that plays a significant role in hereditary hair loss in many men. It is a prescription drug and must be prescribed by a doctor.1

Because finasteride is a prescription drug, its use should always be discussed with a doctor. This also applies to possible side effects.

Shampoos for hair loss

Shampoos can be useful for cleansing, scalp comfort, and cosmetic volume. But with hereditary hair loss, the problem lies deeper, around the hair follicles. A shampoo usually has brief contact with the scalp and is then rinsed off. Therefore, shampoos are generally not a real treatment for hereditary hair loss.

An exception is ketoconazole shampoo (2%), for which limited evidence exists as an adjunct to other treatments.12

In our comparison of shampoos for hair loss, we explain which ingredients are used and what is scientifically known about them.

Supplements and gummies

Supplements can be useful in case of a deficiency, for example, of iron or vitamin D. But with hereditary hair loss, a supplement is usually not a treatment for the cause.20

Do not use supplements as a replacement for a diagnosis or treatment. In case of sudden or severe hair loss, it is advisable to consult a doctor.

What does this mean for you as a consumer?

This is good for your wallet because usually, you shouldn't expect much from cosmetic lotions. Also, be critical of big claims – don't trust promises of effectiveness versus minoxidil.

Cosmetic hair growth lotions primarily help with:

  • cosmetically fuller hair
  • less hair breakage
  • a more pleasant scalp sensation

A cosmetic product can be fine for care. But don't automatically expect it to medically treat hereditary hair loss.

Which treatments are genuinely available as medicines in the Netherlands?

In the Netherlands, these medicines are particularly relevant for hereditary hair loss:

  • Minoxidil 5% foam
  • Minoxidil 2% and 5% lotion
  • Finasteride tablets for men (prescription)

Additionally, there are other treatments that dermatologists may consider, depending on the situation. Always discuss this with a doctor or dermatologist.

Summary

Cosmetic hair growth products are often presented attractively. Sometimes, webshops or manufacturers even compare them to proven and registered medicines. But the question is not just whether something sounds scientific – the question is: what evidence of efficacy exists?

  • Minoxidil and finasteride have the strongest evidence as registered medicines.1,2
  • Caffeine lotion has a promising published study; the study design is moderate, and it is not registered as a medicine.
  • Redensyl, rosemary oil, and ketoconazole have limited evidence from small studies.12,13,15
  • Spectral, Nanoxidil, Foligain, Trioxidil, Neofollics, Neoxyl, and Bio-Pilixin have no or very limited published evidence of efficacy against hair loss. 3

Choose wisely. Protect your wallet. Don't buy out of panic, but look at the evidence.

A full bathroom cabinet is not a treatment plan!

FAQ – Frequently asked questions

Question Answer
Is Alpecin Caffeine Liquid proven against hair loss? Alpecin is a cosmetic lotion. The active ingredient caffeine has a promising study comparing it to minoxidil.4 However, that study was open-label (people knew they were using the product), and it is unclear whether the tested product is identical to Alpecin. Caffeine is not registered as a medicine for hair loss.
Is Redensyl proven against hair loss? There is one published study with positive results, in which the lotion was compared to a lotion without active ingredients.¹⁵ However, the study was small, participants knew which product they were using, and the lotion contained multiple ingredients. This is not enough evidence to say that Redensyl works as well as minoxidil.
What is the difference between Nanoxidil and minoxidil? Nanoxidil and minoxidil sound similar, but they are very different products. Minoxidil = one active ingredient, registered medicine, extensively researched.
Nanoxidil = different molecule, cosmetic ingredient, not registered as a medicine and not researched for the treatment of hereditary hair loss in clinical studies. The similar name can be confusing, but says nothing about its efficacy.
Is (Spectral) Nanoxidil better than minoxidil? That has not been proven. Nanoxidil is a cosmetic product and minoxidil is a registered medicine. No published scientific studies have been found comparing Nanoxidil with minoxidil in people with hereditary hair loss. There is one published study on the product Spectral DNC-N® in women with early-stage hereditary hair loss.21 In that study, hair loss decreased and hair density increased after 3 months. However, the study did not have a comparison group, participants knew which product they were using, and the product contained multiple ingredients — not just Nanoxidil. Therefore, it is not clear which ingredient caused the effect. This is not enough evidence to say that Nanoxidil works against hair loss. We do know this for minoxidil.
What is the difference between trioxidil and minoxidil? Minoxidil = one active ingredient, registered medicine, extensively researched.
Trioxidil = brand name for a mix of ingredients, cosmetic product and not researched as a treatment for hereditary hair loss. The similar name can be confusing, but it is a fundamentally different product with a fundamentally different level of evidence.
Is (Foligain) Trioxidil better than minoxidil? That has not been proven. Trioxidil is in a cosmetic lotion from the brand Foligain. Minoxidil is a registered medicine. No published scientific studies have been found comparing Trioxidil with minoxidil in people with hereditary hair loss. No independent studies testing Trioxidil for hereditary hair loss have been found either. Minoxidil has been shown to be effective for hereditary hair loss. There is no evidence for trioxidil.
What is the difference between Neoxyl and minoxidil? In short: Minoxidil = one active ingredient, registered medicine, extensively researched.
Neoxyl = brand name for a cosmetic mix of known ingredients, not registered as a medicine and without published clinical evidence. The name Neoxyl suggests it is a substance, but that is not the case. It is a brand name for a mix of known cosmetic ingredients.
Is Neofollics (Neoxyl) better than minoxidil? There is no evidence for that. There are no published scientific studies comparing Neofollics or Neoxyl with minoxidil in people with hereditary hair loss. Minoxidil is a medicine with evidence that it can be effective for the treatment of hereditary hair loss. Minoxidil is recommended in international dermatological guidelines as a first-choice treatment for hereditary hair loss. This type of evidence is lacking for Neofollics and Neoxyl. This is a cosmetic product and not a proven treatment for hair loss. Claims about efficacy are usually based on ingredient research, internal data, or user tests. This does not mean that Neofollics lotion (Neoxyl) is directly useless. It can be cosmetically pleasant and, for example, comfortable for the scalp.
Does rosemary oil work against hair loss? There is one small study that compared rosemary oil with 2% minoxidil and found similar results.13 However, the evidence is limited and other research has primarily been done on animals.14
Can I use cosmetic products alongside minoxidil? Sometimes, but keep your routine simple. Too many products at once can irritate your scalp or make it difficult to assess what works. Use minoxidil according to the instructions and ask for advice if you are unsure.
Why do some products still seem to have good reviews? Reviews can be useful for saying something about ease of use, scent, or satisfaction. But reviews do not prove that a product treats hereditary hair loss. People can also confuse temporarily fuller-looking hair with actual hair growth.

Complete comparison table

This table provides a full comparison with product type, published evidence, and rating per product or ingredient.

Rank Product or ingredient Type Published evidence Rating
1 Minoxidil (lotion/foam) Medicine Multiple large RCTs, meta-analyses, drug registration1,2 ★★★★★
Strong
2 Finasteride (tablets) Prescription medicine (men) Multiple large RCTs, drug registration1,2 ★★★★★
Strong
3 Caffeine (topical 0.2%) Cosmetic ingredient 1 non-inferiority RCT vs. minoxidil (n=210), systematic review of 9 studies4,5,6 ★★★☆☆
Moderate
4 Ketoconazole shampoo (2%) Medicine (prescription) Systematic review of 7 studies (318 patients)12 ★★☆☆☆
Limited
5 Rosemary oil Cosmetic / natural product 1 small RCT vs. minoxidil 2% (n=100), otherwise primarily animal research13,14 ★★☆☆☆
Limited
6 Redensyl products Cosmetic ingredient 1 single-blind vehicle-controlled study (n=44), other studies open-label15,16 ★★☆☆☆
Limited
7 Spectral / Nanoxidil Cosmetic lotion No published peer-reviewed clinical studies for AGA3 ★☆☆☆☆
Weak
8 Foligain / Trioxidil Cosmetic product Primarily user tests or proprietary data3 ★☆☆☆☆
Weak
9 Neofollics / Neoxyl Cosmetic lotion Primarily ingredient claims and internal data3 ★☆☆☆☆
Weak
10 Bio-Pilixin Cosmetic serum Small open studies, self-reported3 ☆☆☆☆☆
Very weak

Sources

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  2. Adil A, et al. The effectiveness of treatments for androgenetic alopecia: a systematic review and meta-analysis. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. 2017;77(1):136–141.
  3. Bikash C. Topical alternatives for hair loss: beyond the conventional. International Journal of Trichology. 2025;17(1):13–19.
  4. Dhurat R, et al. An open-label randomized multicenter study assessing the noninferiority of a caffeine-based topical liquid 0.2% versus minoxidil 5% solution in male androgenetic alopecia. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology. 2017;30(6):298–305.
  5. Ly N, et al. Caffeine supplementation and hair: a systematic review. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology. 2025;24(11).
  6. Völker JM, et al. Caffeine and its pharmacological benefits in the management of androgenetic alopecia: a review. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology. 2020;33(3):93–109.
  7. Babadjouni A, et al. Melatonin and the human hair follicle. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology. 2023;22(3):e75–e80.
  8. Fischer TW, et al. Melatonin increases anagen hair rate in women with androgenetic alopecia or diffuse alopecia: results of a pilot randomized controlled trial. British Journal of Dermatology. 2004;150(2):341–345.
  9. Takahashi T, et al. The first clinical trial of topical application of procyanidin B-2 to investigate its potential as a hair growing agent. Phytotherapy Research. 2001;15(4):331–336.
  10. Kamimura A, et al. Investigation of topical application of procyanidin B-2 from apple to identify its potential use as a hair growing agent. Phytomedicine. 2000;7(6):529–536.
  11. Tenore GC, et al. Annurca apple nutraceutical formulation enhances keratin expression in a human model of skin and promotes hair growth and tropism in a randomized clinical trial. Journal of Medicinal Food. 2018;21(1):90–95.
  12. Fields JR, et al. Topical ketoconazole for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia: a systematic review. Dermatologic Therapy. 2020;33(1):e13202.
  13. Gupta AK, et al. Natural products for male androgenetic alopecia. Dermatologic Therapy. 2022;35(4):e15323.
  14. Mathenge A, et al. An exploratory preclinical in vivo pilot study evaluating the hair growth–promoting effects of Rosmarinus officinalis and Ricinus communis combination. BioMed Research International. 2026;2026(1):e5037275.
  15. Katoulis AC, et al. A randomized, single-blinded, vehicle-controlled study of a topical active blend in the treatment of androgenetic alopecia. Dermatologic Therapy. 2020;33(4):e13734.
  16. Merja A, et al. Safety and efficacy of REGENDIL™ infused hair growth promoting product in adult human subject having hair fall complaints (alopecia). Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2024;23(3):938–948.
  17. Heilmann-Heimbach S, et al. Hormonal regulation in male androgenetic alopecia — sex hormones and beyond: evidence from recent genetic studies. Experimental Dermatology. 2020;29(9):814–827.
  18. Patel M, et al. A clinical evaluation of the safety, efficacy, and tolerability of the Soulflower Rosemary Redensyl Hair Growth Serum, Tetragain™, in healthy female subjects for the treatment of alopecia. Cureus. 2025;17(1):e77066.
  19. Podolsky AS, et al. Adjunctive approaches for androgenetic alopecia: a clinical review of nutritional, light-based, topical, and lifestyle interventions. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. Online ahead of publication March 24, 2026.
  20. Drake L, et al. Evaluation of the safety and effectiveness of nutritional supplements for treating hair loss: a systematic review. JAMA Dermatol. 2023;159(1):79-86.
  21. Vincenzi C, et al. Effects of a New Topical Treatment Containing Several Hair Growth Promoters in Women with Early Female Pattern Hair Loss. Skin Appendage Disord. 2019 Apr;5(3):146-151.
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